India, In Observations
By Grant P. in Random on December 30th, 2008 - 6:20 pm
I noted something about westerners who chose to vacation in India: they all stand out. Not only because they are white, but because they wear fanny packs, carry their sunglasses on brightly colored foam cords around their neck, and cover their heads with safari hats. In the middle of a very big city, Europeans and Americans are walking around dressed for encampment. Worse than that, though, are the Japanese, who have put all pride and hopes of blending in behind them and walk around all day with surgical gloves and face masks favored by the more cautious of today’s mail carriers. I counted no less than twenty of these people in all four cities I visited, and it made me want to beat them to death. Not as a hate crime, but because I want to spare them the innevitable humiliation of getting home and showing their friends and family pictures of them at the Taj Mahal or Amber Fort dressed as if they have come to do very delicate reconstruction.
Now lets see what my five senses had to say about India. Everything is made of layers, and exists at one severe end of the spectrum or the other. Walls of stone will be painted with a layer of yellow or turquoise, and then slathered with animal blood. The lower something is the more paint it has on it, but that goes right up to the top. The road is rather nice and cobblestoney, but hidden beneath a half inch of dirt, then anywhere from one to three feet of trash, some of which has been set on fire for your convenience and comfort, some of that is being eaten by bulls. India is home to a number of unique smells, many of them pleasant, but most of them unforgetable. I’ll smell the air here sometimes and say “It smells like India.” Veranasi itself smells like burning chocolate, for example. I thought it was incense or cooking, but my mom told me that it was just the corpses being burnt on the Ganges. The food is very spicy and very colorful. Since all the menus were in Hindi my policy was to order the dish with the longest name and eat whatever they brought me. One morning in Jaipur I woke up to what sounded like all the adults from a Charlie Brown movie yelling into a loudspeaker! WAAAAA! waaa WAAAA! Someone, somewhere, for some reason had decided to blow horns very loudly at different volumes and times, making for a constant stream of WAA WAA WAA’s that morning. It went on for over an hour. The night before someone had gotten his hands on that same giant microphone system, and was using it to sing mindless songs, relay anecdotes, or generally palather to the city at large. I thing a single man spoke to the entire city for over three hours and not one word of it sounded important. I think he was just killing time.
Veranasi is the world’s oldest city, having records of its existence more than 8,000 years ago. The city is most famous for its burrial rituals, which are very moving, actually. There is an ETERNAL FLAME! that has been burning for 5000 years that you use to burn the corpse of your dead loved one, wrapped in silk of different colors according to their class. The husband or male heir circles their bed of wood five times and then lights it, allowing the spirit to flow out. After 1 and a half hours they smash the skull so the spirit can escape to nirvana, and the whole thing burns for 34 hours. After which the ashes are beaten with a shovel to make room for the next procession. I watched as someone was lit on fire , and also watched them smash the skull with a big stick. It still had a face and everything. I can now use the word “funeral pyre” with firsthand experience. Read on…



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